Mukteshwar Tour

Mukteshwar is a quiet heaven at 7,513 ft above sea level in the Upper Kumaon Hills 26 km ahead of Ramgarh and 351 km North East of Delhi, india.

At 8,000 ft in the Kumaon Hills, Mukteshwar is only 350 km from Delhi but it could be another planet. From the Mountain Trail hotel where we are staying on a clear day you get a more than 180 degree views of the Himalaya including the whole of the Nanda Devi Range and Trishul the owner Dilip Gupta tells us.

There is something about hills, reminders of Earth’s adolescent upheavals and our own childhood’s that stirs memories. Mukteshwar is full of memories, most notably of Jim Corbett.

Mukteshwar is an ideal base from which to explore the tal region. But unless you want to be part of the human millrace that seasonally floods the hills from the plains, these over popular spots are best avoided.

In and around Mukteshwar itself there are mercifully only a few places of specific scenic interest to distract you from the main objective getting away from it all and just unwinding, without the proddling of busybody schedules and itineraries.

Like everywhere in the hills, Mukteshwar has a sunset point. Here it’s called Chauthi Jaali a jagged outcrop of rocks sculpted by the elements into a Daliesque vision of a storm raging sea cast in stone. Below the valley swoops down into a stomach lurching drop. Probably just as well. You don’t need distractions from the view which is truly breathtaking. At sunset or any other time of the day.

There is a nearby Shiva Temple but unless you are an ardent devotee besides being stout of limb to negotiate the steep path leading up to it you can skip it.

The PWD Bangalow immortalized by Corbett is worth a look see even if you’ve never read anything by the great shikari. The white and green trim bungalow has been kept in impeccable condition an eye opener for all us skeptics who believe that the government can’t do anything right. There is no Corbett memorabilia inside, but you can sit on the lawn and read one of his jungle yarns. Or just soak in the sunshine and think thoughts as vagrant as the mountain breeze.

Another local institution of in

terest is the Mukteshwar post office, possibly the only one in the country which still does double duty as a mini general store where people gather to exchange information and general gup shup.

Around Mukteshwar

Sitla 5Km

If Mukteshwar is a getaway Sitla Estate is a getaway from a getaway. There is nothing in Sitla but a 150 year old house, built by an eccentric and long departed English family which owner Vikram Maira has converted into a six room hotel.

Wraparound views of snow peaks, dense forests like green clouds settled on the hills nature walks as rambling as a shikar yarn, snug rooms warmed by cheery fires in winter homemade apricot and plum juice to wash down the good simple and substaintial fare. Yes but what do I do in Sital if you need to ask that at all Sitala’s not for you or you for sitla.