You almost expect to walk in and find a sleeping beauty, but it is snow white’s bane that is the fruit of this valley of temples. When your palate wants refreshing after the local dainties, walk into the region’s renowned orchards for a bite of the local crop non pareil apples.

You will be torn between the orchards on the slopes and the river nearby. If you are not that keen on nature, you could sample the thousand year old temples of Durga and Siva. Also consider the challenge of driving almost 22 km in the hills before setting out on shank’s pony to a mountain lake or tribal villages not linked by road.

A 3 half hours drive out of Shimla brings you to this fairy tale palace. Perched in a little hollow amid the hills, Jubbal Palace looks gingerbread enough to eat. Himachali Gothick, Architecture buffs can debate it through, but you won’t care once firmly ensconced in its art deco interiors.

Hatkoti
Ruins of ancient temples dot the nearby village of Hatkoti, which is something of a Tantric peeth. No surprise, then that it is named after the goddess Hatkeshwari. Hatkeshwar is one of Lord Shiva’s names. Hatkoti is centred on a walled compound enclosing these temples dedicated to Hatkeshwari depicted as Durga slaying the demon and Hatkeshwar.

The Pabber River, a perennial river arising in the Chanshal Range just south of Kinnaur, is born of a snow and spring fed lake. Various smaller streams join it on its short journey to Hatkoti, where it meets the rivulet Bishkulti and the Rai Nala.

Around Jubbal
Khara Pathar 9 km
Just before Hatkoti, Khara Pathar towers at 8,770ft. Apart from the apple orchards, deodars and pines crowd its slopes. A 7 km jeep track from here leads up to the Giri Ganga Temple, near the source of the Giri.

Rohru 31 km
Rohru is Shimla district’s apple hub and the hills surrounding this town and Hatkoti are covered with orchards. Though the best time to see ripe fruit is in April, a breathtaking sight of pale white blooms. Just be careful not to trespass.

A modest town 31 km beyond Jubbal, this is a major centre for the apple trade and has the only running HPTDC hotel in this belt. Rohru also has a temple dedicated to Shikhru Devta, a local deity.

Kotkhai 33 km
At a height of 5,774 ft, this is the point of entry to the apple country stretching past Rohru. But the major attraction in Kotkhai is its beautiful palace with exquisite, heavily cared wooden pillars.

Chirgaon 40 km
The motorable road ends here. Two small streams, Andhra and Gumma, join the Pabbar River. Adventure seekers can take off from here on a long trek to Dodra Kwar, the remotest village across the 13,845 ft Chansal Pass, which remains open from May to October. Chirgaon also boasts a trout hatchery.

Getting There
Road Ways: The only way to reach Jubbal from Shimla 97 km is by road NH22 via Kufri and Theog, then SH10 to Chhaila, 13km away, then on to Kothai, another 19km away, then Khara Pathar 24 km away an dthen another 9 km to Jubbal. The drive from Delhi takes 11 hours.
Nearest Railway Station: Kalka 191 km/ 6 hours. Taxi to Jubbal Costs Rs 2,000.

Where to Stay and Eat
The Jubbal Palace (Telephone: 01781-252001-02. Tariff Rs 4,500)

The best time to be here is at sunset, when gold tings covers the snow capped mountains. The walk to the helipad is best preceded by a short visit to the retreat, where you can take a peek at the secluded country cottage at the top of the hill.

Atop Mashobra sits a forlorn Church, which has now been converted into a dormitory by the YMCA. This morose looking structure was originally known as St Crispin’s Church and according to the inscription to the glory of God.

The drive from Mashobra to Bekhalti is one of the prettiest in the region. The 18 km road meets Theog on the old Hindustan Tibet road. Just off dhalli towards the Kufri raod lies Seog, a reserve forest whose ancient cedar trees make you feel like a pygmy. A 7 km walk inside brings you to a water reservoir built in 1901. A well situated forest rest house is a welcome break for a cup of tea. Kept out of bounds for travelers for years, this jungle oasis has preserved an aastonishing variety of flora and fauna.

Kufri and Fagu

The undulating slopes of salubrious kufri 8,602 ft guarded by the vast expanse of ancient cedar forests, bring back memories of day long picnics, horse riding and languorous walks during lazy hazy summer hols. Mahasu Peak, the highest point in Kufri, makes a challenging hike. When the sky’s a cloudless blue, watch for those inviting views of the snowy peaks of the Badrinath and Kedarnath ranges.

Freezing ears, numbed fingers, hot gulab jamuns and spicy punch. Spending the winter on Kufri’s snow mantled ski slopes is a time honoured tradition revived every year with the return of the snows in late December till February early March. The hills come alive with the shouts of young voices as kids pelt snowballs at each other and make snowmen. Bands of ski enthusiasts from all over the country drift from the snowy fields of Kufri to Narkanda in search of the finest ski slopes to flaunt their expertise. Your hotel will be happy to arrange equipment about Rs 500 a day for sticks ski boots, etc. For non skiers, there are the placied yak rides or the shrieking delights of tobogganing.

Neldehra is the right place to spend around 3 to 4 days or make it a base to visit other destinations on and off the old Hindustan Tibet road. Most of these connect to Mashobra, the charming enclave of British Raj Mansions. The interiors of Neldehra, with their spruce pines, plum trees and berries, have escaped the trample of the tourists but that looks set to change, given the amount of construction activity. Another teeny warning the views of the snow crowned Himalayan Range will be blocked for most part by the Shaily Peak.

There is much more to do in Neldehra long walks through pine lined roads, excursions to picnic spots or old English style cottages in the surrounding villages of baldian, Talli and Durgapur. If you are here in June there is the Sipi Fair, said to be a festival of matchmaking.

Just before Neldehra falls the village of Baldian. From here, take the motorable Old Rickshaw Road. After Craignano head for Talli a tiny meadow surrounded by the Mahakali Temple and the estate of the erstwhile Maharaja of Faridkot. This is the site for many a bull fight in early October.

Around Neldehra

Chabba 18 km

Between March and June the powerhouse at Chabba on Sutlej River provides the starting point for the 11 km rafting stretch upto Tattapani. The Chalets Neldehra organize rafting trip for Rs 800 per person per trip. The rafting season is between May and June and then again from September to October.

Shaily Peak 23 km

Head out to Shaily Peak early in the morning, the road is motorable but not too comfortable, the scenery passable. Halfway through the journey, you can stop for a cup of garam chai at Kapoor Tea stall. from Khatnol, the base for the steep climb to the peak, it’s roughly 8km. You can also hire a pony for Rs 100-150.

Kullu Sightseens

Raghunath Temple, temple of lord Rama about 400 years old.

Bijli Mahadev Temple 14 km is famous for its high staff which attracts lightning thereby shattering the Shivalinga which congeals after butter and barley gram is applied on it.

Basheshwar Mahadev Temple Bajaura 15 km is a 9th centuary Shiva temple famous for its stone carvings.

Manikaram 45 km famous for its hot springs and a gurdwara revered by Hindus and Sikhs

Trekking & Adventures: The valley is the starting point for treks. Some major ones are over chandrakhani Pass to Malana, over Jalori Pass or Bashleo Pass, Pin Pass to Spiti. Manikaran to Saraumga Pass to Chhota Dhara. Manikaran or Kasol or Jari to Manikaran to Malana valley via animal Pass.

The Tani Jubber Lake is 4 km from Thanedar. Take the car till the point where the road is no longer motorable. The uphill climb takes 10 minutes, if you are quick on your feet. As you push through branches and bramble, the road clears and the ground beneath your feet becomes glat.

Like a pearl in an oyster waiting to be discovered in the midst of nowhere, with the snow peaked mountains in the background and a weeping willow sighing on its periphery lies the placid lake. There is a local temple on one side of the lake that is not open to outsiders. In June a fair is held at the lake, where local artisans and craftsmen display their wares.

Around Thanedar

Narkanda 16km
This junction town and refueling stop does not appear to have realized its destiny as a happening tourist destination. In summer traveler usually stop by just to grab a few winks before moving on to Kinnaur and Spiti. In winters skiing is the only reason some come to Narkanda, or to March to Hatu Peak. Skiing unfolds from January to early March. Do the undemanding trek, or drive up to Hatu Peak. At the top there is a little temple dedicated to Hatu Mata, a tea stall in summer and a camping ground.

The Hindustan Tibet highway quickly ascends through the Sutlej Valley, which now is narrower and hair raisingly steep. The bease of the Sangla ascent is a small outpost called Karchham. The drive from Karchham where the Baspa River drains into the Sutlej has got to be one of the most hearts stopping yet. At Karchham you leave the highway and take the road that climbs steeply above the Baspa, one of the most beautiful mountain rivers. Crystal clear blue green water gushes over craggy rocks.

Sangla is also famous for the impressive Kamru Fort, once the bastion of the rajas of the Rampur Bushehr State. High above the village on a hillock is the Kamakshi Temple, the venue of the coronation ceremony of the rajas of Rampur Bushehr.

Fishing

If you are an enthusiastic angler, then Sangla is where you want to be. The swirling current of the Baspa is home to both the rainbow and brown trout. A fishing permit Rs100 can be obtained from the fisheries Department here.

Trekking Adventure

Give the kids an adrenaline kick this summer. Take them river crossing with professional and experienced operators. The daring can go paragliding over the Himalaya. If this seems a bit too extreme, come down to earth spend your time walking uphill and down forest trails. Almost every direction makes for an invigorating walk with scenic views. Make sure you carry water and snacks for the kids. You are not going to encounter anything by way of dhabas or teashops on your rambles.

Treks and birdwarching along the forest trails of Sangla, Kalpa and Sarahan, river crossing and lessons in trout fishing in the Baspa River at Sangla

Around Sangla

Chitkul

North of Sangla lies the tiny outpost of Chitkul, which gives you the feeling of having traveled to the very ends of civilization. Beyond Chitkul lies a vast expanse of inhospitable mountains terrain and beyond that the forbidden tracts of Tibet. In fact, just beyond Chitkul is the village of Nagasthi, the last border outpost, and civilians are not permitted beyond this point. The hardy, intrepid indo Tibetan border police keep a lonely vigil here.

Chitkul falls on what used to be ancient trade routes imagine the weather beaten caravans and yaks laden with turquoise, coral and even pearls moving on this route.

The drive from Sangla to chitkul is spectacular. Severa streams criss cross the road as you bump along through some seriously beautiful countryside. Thickly forested hillsides give way to alpine meadows and eventually to mountains that are craggier less green and more baren thean the ones you are left behind.

Kalpa 44Km

When you have come this far to Sangla, you cannot miss the drive to Kalpa 9,711 ft for the breathtaking views of the sacred kinner kailash, the Raldang Kailash Massif and its sister peaks. Kalpa used to be a favourite haunt of lord Dalhousie who often who often made the soul stiring journey by carriage alone the Sutlej River under the long shadows of towering mountains to enjoy these views.

Kalpa has some lovely walks and views from the Chini forest Bangalow. If you are feeling up to it, plan the 2km 45 minute khud hike to nearby Rekong Peo 13km. Keep in mind that you will need a ride back. It is a stiff haul up on foot.

Dense forests of oak and deodar surround Palampur, making it ideal for long walks. In town though there are important centres of faith whose beauty, spiritually and architecturally, does not fail to touch your soul, including the Baijnath and Chamunda Devi temples.

Close to the fine century’s old temple of Bundlamata is the 300m wide Neugal Khad chasm, through which flows the tiny Bundla stream. Rising tall behind the chasm are the mightly dhauladhars. Don’t miss a ride on the Kanga Queen toy train that runs between Palampur and Pathankot in the Kangra Valley.

Andretta

The tea gardens and mustard fields, this artist’s village, the sleepy hamlet owes its arty status to Norah Richards, known as the nani of Punjabi theatre. Richards carved up her vast estate Andretta, building a writer’s retreat and donating land to artists to encourage them to set up home here.

Around Palampur

Taragarh 11km
Commanding a 15 acre wooded estate in the Kangra valley and surrounded by tea gardens is Al-hilal, palace of the crescent moon, aka taragarh. This heritage property was built by the Nawab of Bahawalpur to serve as his summer residence and was named after the glass pleasure pavilion he built here since been turned into a temple.

Shoghi is much more that just a cheap alternative to Shimla, It’s an ideal place to get away from it all. Learn how to paint with watercolours, indulge your camera, read new books, take up virdwatching and turn off your mobile and listern to the sounds of the forest. There are ample trekking gounds and clear streams that babble over beautifully coloured stones.

Tara Devi Temple

One of the significant temples of the area, the Tara Devi Temple is approximately 11 km south of Shimla but stands higher at 6,073 ft. As you drive through Shoghi headed due north on NH22, the turn off for Tara Devi is on the right, at the end of the town. The ascent is simultaneously breathtaking and nerve racking. The road is thankfully new. Various histories date the temple as either 200 or 500 years old. The story goes that a vision of Tara Devi appeared to the Raja of Junga on the mountain and he immediately built a temple on that spot.

Don’t leave Shoghi without trying some of Minchy’s Fruit Products locally produced achaars, Jellies, sysrups and juices. At the junction fo the main road NH22 and the road leading up to the Tara Devi Temple.

Local Temples

The landscape around Shoghi is dotted with temples. Virtually every villages in the region has one each as exquisite as the next. Approximately 6 km south west of Shoghi, nestling in a valley of green tress and fields, is the village of Anji. The recently renovated Hanuman Temple here stands right on the edge of the village. Continue on from Anji to Kadaur approximately 3 km west to the Kali Temple. Situated atop a velvet carpet knoll of green grass.

Where honeymooning couples hop in for a day or tow of princely excitement. At the height of summer, it is almost impossible to get a foothold here, with tourists, cars, buses and unnumerable troops of monkeys roving aggressively around the property.

Chail doesn’t have a mall just a few shops. Its best offers are leisurely walks in summer and autumn and fun in the poder snow in winters. Spread over three hills Pandhawa, Rajgarh and Siddh Tibba chail is also ideal for picnics and hikes.

Pilgrims Progress

Faith has three faces in Chail. The most important in this former dominion of Patiala is the Gurudawara Sahib, built in 1907. Located 1km above Chail’s bazaar on Pandhawa Hill, the yellow distempercovered gurudwara is a small building with a tiny courtyard. The tow towers like structures fitted into the façade flanking the main entrance enhance the air of austerity, which is reminiscent of some of the churches in Goa.

Siddh Baba ka Mandir is situated on the hill sandwiched by Rajgarh and Pandhawa. Set in the army cantonment area, the temple sits next to the cricket agounds currently being used by the Army. It is a simple, traditional structure that bears witness to this holy ascetic of legend.

The third temple is the Kali ka Tibba, located on the top of the hill named after the Rajmatas cottage, Blossom, One can see the Chur Chandni Peak and the Shivalik Range from here. It’s an easy 6 km trek from the bazaar via the Gauda Road.

Born to be Wild

Stretching from the Krishna River to Giriganga is a small wildlife sanctuary, which includes roughtly 200 small villages besides the wild langur, leopards, Indian brown bear, hogs, deer ghoral, sambhar, goats and wild pheasant.

Trekking

Chail is all about walking in pairs, with sticks and hands otherwise empty that is, if you wish to avoid the marauding monkeys, who are not averse to attacking walkers on a whim. Treks to Shimla and Kandaghat take you along village short cuts over the cedar forested hills.

Angling

Head for the Giriganga River 29 km from Chail on the Gauda Road for a spot of angling but be prepared for small catch only. Keen anglers also not that the trout is only an occasional visitor here.