The Manali-Leh Drive

A road trip without parallel. One journeys through one of the most desolate areas of the country along the second highest road in the world, over 4 passes, before arriving at Leh. The 480-km Manali-Leh Highway is snowed in for nearly eight months every year. But there’s plenty of traffic from mid-June to early October and much scope for help in case of a breakdown.

Make this 62 to 30 hour drive over 2 days, covering the bulk of the distance of nearly 220 km to Sarchu on the first day. Leave early morning stopping at the string of dhabas at Marhi 17 km short of Rohtange for breakfast. Cross the Rohtang La, the first pass at 13,058 ft and descend to koshar at the chandra valley floor. Drive along the Chandra River for 35 km to Tandi then in the the Bhaga valley, traveling north to Darcha. Break for the meal at the dhabas here. After Darcha the road climbs to a major pass the Baralacha La. Sarchu Serai another 35 km away, as a few tented camps for the overnight stay you must make.

The next day you cross the Lachulung La en route to pang and then onto an incredible 45-km long flat section the Moray Plains. The next obstacle to tackle is the highest pass on this road Tanglang La (17,500 ft), after which the Leh valley unfolds majestically.

Note: Heavery fog builds up on the Manali side of the pass almost every day after 5 pm. Time your return so that you cross the pass by 4pm.

The Self-driven Approach

If you have a sports utility vehicle in reasonable condition (4×4 is preferable) and adventure in your blood and love the out-door this is the thing to do. Driving up in your own vehicle gives you the advantage of pacing your-self, stopping for a photo-op or just leeching at the scenery.

Permits

To visit the Inner Line areas of Nubra Vally, Pangong-Tso, Tso-Moriri and the Dha-Hanu Valley, Permits are required. These are easy to get and are given for week-long visits, with a simple application being made at the Collector’s Office in Keh, situated at the far side of the Polo Ground. Local operator change approximately Rs 50 for permits. Carry at least 5 photocopies of the permit, which have to be deposited at check points en route.

Route: NH1 to Ambaka, NH22 to Zirakpur, NH21 to Manali, Manali-Leh Highway to Leh through Rohtang La, Baralacha La, Lachung La and Tanglang La.

Frozen in turbulence for nearly 15 years, Kashmir seems defined by its recent history. And 1989 is the line that divides the much loved tourist cliché from the no less familiar epithet paradise lost. Before Militancy from after Militancy. If you are fortunate enough to visit Srinagar you will certainly feel the tragedy of the precent more keenly. The city bears many scars as well as the unnerving and sometimes reassuring presence of many, many armed men. And yet as you walk the streets, paddle through the backwaters of the lake or down the Jhelum, your perspective will change as you sense a more complex continuum. The bowl of the valley is too large for the dismal tale of militancy and military repression alone. It’s brimming, of course, with natural beauty and with faith. But best of all, it’s brimming with history. The beauty is indifferent to human problems and faith is too oftern at the root of them. But the history, if you read and see enough of it is full of beauty, faith and intelligence.

If you like complexity, that is. If you are reassured by the knowledge that the powerful are sometimes good, that the pious can be evil and that oftern it’s the other way round. If you can delight in the knowledge that in 1320 the Ladakhi Buddhist prince Rinchin would become the first Muslim king of Kashmir. That the relentless iconoclast sikandar Butshikan would father the secularist prince charming, badshah Zain-ul-abidin 1420-1470. That in 1665, Aurangzeb would come here to unburden his guilt on the shoulder of a flamboyant Brahmin ascetic, Rishi Pir, for having executed the mudist. Armenian-Jewish-Sufi Armad. Kashmir is full of these stories, and the monuments that make them manifest. The comforts of history.

The most convenient way to get around Srinagr is in one of the innumerable sumos at the taxi stands at the Tourist Reception Center and Tange Bagh. In the city autos are easily available the rates negotiable beforehand.

The Gardens

First and inevitable chances are you will be directed to the Mughal Gardens on your first day in town. Submit the only element of choice is the order in which you visit them. Just to be thorough you can start with the Harwan Gardens, which are not Mughal at all but a modern imitation, dignified only by the presence of a few chinars. But at the top of the garden lies the reservoir that feeds the authentic gardens. Before you leave, take the path immediately on the left as you exit the Harwan Gardens and ask anyone you meet along the way for directions to the khandar or to Harichandroz.

Shalimar Gardens

Following the road back to the city stop at the gate of Shalimar, this is set at the end of a canal leading to the Dal Lake. A Rs 5 entrance fees a quick frisk and presto. It’s 1619 and you’re a Mughal. You and a few hundred others. Well was crowded in Jahangir’s day too albeit with lovelier lovelie than you are likely to see. At the summit of this four-terraced garden stands the beautiful baradari a summerhouse ringed withpillars of black marble from pampore. This was and remains the high point of any visit to the abode of love.

Nishat Bagh

At Nishat Bagh 4 km down the road on the lake shore the secluded dignity of Jahangir’s garden gives way to a giddy lightness with a splendid view of the Dal Lake and the mountains beyond. This garden once had terraces stretching down to the lake, but he lower the road and its dhabas have consumed reaches.

Chashma Shahi Gardens

But this was an emperor who liked to leave his mark. And so on the slopes of Zaberwen did shah Jahan a stately pleasure garden decree. On his instructions the Mughal governor Ali Mardan Kha built the small but perfect Chashma Shahi Gardens in 1632. More recently aldous Huxley deemed it architecturally the most charming of the gardens near Srinagar.

Pari Mahal

A short drive further along a spur of the Zaberwan hill, lie the six massive terraces of Pari Mahal also known as Quntilon, with a view to match Chashma shahi’s. commissioned by the doomed Prince Dara Shikoh, at the instance of his tutor Akhund Mulla Muhammad shah badakshani this beautiful garden was originally intended as an observatory and retreat for Sufi scholars.

The Heights

You can use the panoramic view from Pari Mahal for more pedestrian purposes to decide where you want to go next. The lake certainly backons, but you have no doubt been sensible and taken a house boat, so you’ll be going there anyway. Your next essential destination is the Shankaracharya Hill, or Takht-I-Suleiman rising directly from the boulevard on the southern lakeshore. At its pinnacle 1000 ft above the lake is the temple popularly associated with Adi shankaracharya who is said to have meditated here.

Shikara Rides

Don’t forget to take an extended excursion on a shikara. We paid Rs 200 for circuit from Nehru Park past Hazratbal, nagin, Rainwari and back. A shikara ride to CharChinar on Dal Lake and back costs Rs 250-300 fro four people and a ride around the lake Rs 100-250. Also on offer are shikara borne 2-day expeditions to Ganderbal. Ask for Tariq in Love Heaven at the Shankaracharya stand.

In winter, there’s a thin layer of snow covering Patnitop thin but enough for enterprising locals to run a skiing school, strictly for beginners or those unlikey to see snow again in a hurry. Ditto for sledgeing snowmen and snowball fights.

It’s easy to walk around Patnitop never hot and only 5 km in area. If you wish, there are ponies on hire and most places can be approached by car. Chinar Garden, Picnic Spot complete with swings and slides and Skating Garden are the three must visit spots. But a far better option is to head out on your won with a book and a sandwich this is one of the few places in Jammu where you’ll hear the wind soughing through cedar tress.

There are two excursions out of Patnitop. One to Madha Top the ridge opposite Patnitop and the other to Sanasar, a grassy meadow fringed by firtrees. Somewhat inevitably it has been given the sobriquet mini Gulmarg.

Place of Worship

The 6th cenury Nag Temple at Ishadhari is within Patnitop itself. The small bazaar that has sprung up around it offers some cherry-like dried fruits that double up as prasad as well as mementos. Just outside Patnitop is Shudh Mahadev ka Pahad, which houses a holy trishul. Slightly further away is Mantalai with its apple orchards and lemon and orange groves. Its religious link is that Lord Shiva is said to have married Parvati Devi here. Near Mantalai, Krimchi is the site of the oldest temples in the Jammu region.

A day trip away from Srinagar, Gulmarg he huge grassy, cupshaped meadow ringed by firve trees and snowy peaks merits much more. Gulmarg has been a most favoured resort since the Raj. Its best feature is that from any one point, you can see the rest of the expense with its softly undulating slopes and breathe mountain-fresh air. No noise, no pollution, no population, save for a few villagers from neighbouring Tangmarg.

Plenty or nothing at all, depending on your point of view. There’s a 7-km walk called the Inner Ring Road that you can wander along on foot if the ponywallahs leave you alone or an 11-km walk called the Outer Ring Raod which takes you though stands of pine.

Skiing

Gulmarg deserves its place in the sun, it is because of skiing. Its gentle slopes are perfect for first-timer, the more advanced have the option of slaloming down from the gondola car at Kongdor, a 3 km run. There’s a wealth of ski gear on hire. Add to that the cost of the ski lifts to haul you to the top of a ski run and for a instructor and you’re looking at just Rs 500 per day.

Golf

The golf course here said to be the highest in the world was the venue of a prestigious state championship until 1990. You can have a game of olf at the folf club here using hired clubs. There are pros who can teach you, the weather’s perfect and in summer playing hours are long.

Treks

Gulmarg’s highest peak the Affarwat to the west used to be popular for the trek. High up in the massif lies a seldom-visited mountain lake, half frozen even in summer called Alpathar. Almost 5,000 ft up steep slopes, you reach it on foot or by pony (Rs 500), but army permission is needed for anything deemed as trekking out of Fulmarg, so it’s seldom visited. What does have a frenetic rush around it is the Cable Car from Gulmarg to Kongdor. It’s Rs 50 per person per one-way trip.

Route: NH1A to Stinagar via Patnitop, Batote, Ramban and the Banihal Nunnel, Baramulla Road to Narbal, state road to Gulmarg via Tangmarg.