Munsiyari site comfortably somewhere in the middle aisle of a grand amphitheatre is the Panchchuli Range, Hansling, Rajarambha and Chiplako all peaks over 19,685 ft. At sunset when the sky is set ablaze, one anticipates the striking up of a magnigicent orchestra, inundating the valley with Dolby surround sound. Then all of a sudden as if someone has thrown a switch, the colour drains out in front, leaving the sky and mountains in soft tones of pink and grey like the colours of a dove in a mughal miniature. At night it is perfectly still and quiet. A few pinpricks of light mark the houses of the town and distant villages in the far hills.

Munsiyari is the largest town, the panchchuli range dominates the vista they say that it was the last resting place of the Pandavas, the site where they cooked their last meal before ascending to heaven. That the inhabitants of the valley were once nagas, great serpants, who were persecuted by a garuda who wiped all but the last inhabitant out. They were an enterprising lot. Because of the altitude was limited, so they took to trading with Tibet and grew prosperous. Milan a village 54 km up the Goriganga from Munsiyari boasted 500 families and Munsiyari itself became a bstling entrepot.

The map laid its clean, relatively straight line running from almora north east to munsiyari made the 223 km seem easily traveler in a day.

It did not account for the tightly winding roads, which led the struggling vehicle up to 9,000ft hight wind swept passes, not did it hint at the unnumerable breaks one would need in order to daily at waterfalls, swim in rivers picnic in deodar forests or pick rhododendron flowers. For with Munsiyari perched as it is at the edge of the horizon, the journey there is as wonderful as the destination.

To get the most out of it the trip should be treated as a leisurely driving holiday with at least a week in hand.

En route to Munsiyari

Almora and then drove to Vijaypur via the ancient temple town of Bageshwar. The road climbs through chirforested slpes, picturesque villages and entire hillsides sculted into lush, terraced fields. Camp overnight at the Wayfarer Retreat in Vijapur 106km from almora, or carry on further to Chaukori 123km from Almora.

By the time crossed Thal 26km from Chaukori and entered the beautiful Ramganga East Gorge. About 10km from Thal and 2 km before the village of Nachani a small dirt track leads off the main road down to the river. Spend at least an hour or so on a picnic lunch and swim in the ice-cold turquoise waters of the Ramganga River.

About 34 km before Munsiyari right after you cross the Bala Bridge, take a tea break at the Birthi Falls. Plummeting down 400 ft, this is the tallest waterfall of the area. Travel to this area between March and April and climbing up from Birthi marvel at the rhododendron tress with blood red flowers at Ratapani. Then ascend towards the 9,000ft pass at Kalamuni, the vantage point on the top of a great amphitheatre whose backdrop is the Panchchuli Tange.

Balanti

8 km from Munsiyari heading back up towards kalamuni, some 1,300 ft off the main road, is the Balanti Potato Farm. The name conjures up an image of a rather dull place for an outing, belying the breathtaking 180 deg views of the snowpeaks. The ancient oak and rhododendron forest here with its old moss covered rocks and great benign tress is magical.

Munsiyari Bugiyal

Hike up to this lovely meadow just east of the town off the Zara Resort Road. It’s very easy walk and a must for magnificent views of the Panchchuli Range, the Johar Valley with its route to the Milam Glacier and the villageof Harkot, dropping far below in the valley to your right, nestling among terraced green fields. Walk straight due east as the Bugiyal dips down towards the Nanda Devi Mandir. Return to town via the old gas godwon road.

Masterji’s Museum

Masterji a retired school teacher, trekker, traveler, researcher author and authority on the Bhotias of the area has enterprisingly put together a small collection of antiques in a private museum at his residence in Nanasen Village, Munsiyari of freat interest are the original documents which enabled trade between the Johar valley and Tibet and the personal effects of the traders.

Dar Kot

6 km from Munsiyari on the Mad Kot Road lies the village of Dar Kot with 100 years old houses with traditionally carved doors and windows. And if you have money to spare, then perhaps there is no better place to shop for pure handmade pashmina and angora shawls and sheps wool blankets.

Maheshwari or Mehsar Kund

Walk uphill a couple of hundred yards from the Munsiyari Forest Rest House and you will find a paved path moving uphill on your right. Follow the path as it climbs steadily for half an hour through a forest until you arrive at a small meadow ringed by huge oaks and rhododendrons. On the northem edge of the meadow lies this lake today alas a mere pond. But it’s a charming spot nonetheless for a picnic.

Route from Delhi NH24 from Delhi to Moradabad, NH87 till Kathgodam, district road to Almora via Bhowali, state highway to Munsiyari via vijapur and Chaukori..

The signs on the way start announcing serious mountains just after you cross Champawat. This is a serious mountain road, with a 100ft drop on one side and an equal elevation on the other, to the easternmost corner of Uttaranchal. As you leave behind the monotonous plains and enter Champawat District, the mountains lover in you is bound to wake up even if the hour is unearthyly or you have pain in the wrong part of your anatomy because of the long drive.

Kmvn has flagged Pithoragarh as a lesser known destination and they are not entirely wrong. Pithoragarh does, however command attention from two kinds of people mountain lovers and country serers. As Pithoragarh shares its border with Nepal, it serves as an important halt for those heading towards the sacred Kalash Mansarovar Lake as well as for the Indian army. It is also the undisputed HQ of the part of eastern Uttaranchal knows as Kali Kumaon through which flows the sprightly kali.

Pithoragarh is all in all a cool place no flocks of tourists, no pilgrims and no tourist guides. The men on the road keep to themselves and if you are jeans clad city person they will only elbow each other and smile politely at you.

Men and mountains apart, Pithoragarh has little in terms of entertainment. Thank god and Uttaranchal Tourism for small mercies. They have kept Pithoragarh just the way it should be for a few antisocials like me. After all how many hill stations can give you this. And if your idea of a holiday in the hills is not limited to boating on a lake, riding ponies or earning some brownie points with the almighty you can have a whale of a time in Pithoragarh.

On the outskirts of the main town is Pithoragarh fort. Set on the top of a hill, this fort was built by the Gorkhas when they took over the town in 1789. It is a bit of a climb to the top but worth it for the views of Kali Kumaon.

Chandak nearby 8 Km is a beautifull hill from where you get the best view of the Himalayan Range. The locals at chandak strongly believe in the religious strength of the Manu Temple here. A fair is held here every August.

There is a military establishment in the middle of this hill station. They also have a reserved forest here name d Pithoragarh Banya Udayn and a small folf course.

Treks and Adventure

If you carry your own equipment you can paraglide, hang glide, mountain bike, river raft and ski here. The mountainous terrain and swift rivers are ideal for these activities. However there is nothing and no one to provide you with technical emotional or any other kind of support that you might need to do all these. Uttranchal Tourism has major plans of developing Pithoragarh as a happening adventure destination in the near future. But for now you are on your own.

Otherwise just invest in a pair of good boots and trek around the mountains here. If you are really keen, you can take a long trek up to Nanda Devi and Panchchuli the range of snow clad peaks that you get to see from Pithoragarh. There are numerous small treks all around as well. You can also attempt a hike over the hills to Abbott Mount. Though hidden by the hills which cradle Pithoragarh, Abbott Mount is closer as the crow flies then the snaking road back to Champawat District.

Around Pithoragarh

Jhulaghat 33 Km

Even with my limited Hindi, it was not difficult to fathom what the sankara written on the road signs meant. In case your Hindi is even more limited than mine, it means narrow and treacherous. The road and the mountains were all very sankara on the way to Jhulaghat a nondescript town sharing its border with Nepal. There is a small little market on either side of the border. The border itself is the Kali River. There is a hanging bridge on the river the origin of the name Jhulaghat. Crossing the bridge you can enter Nepal and have a foreign trip without any extra cost or official documents such as passport a dvisa. The market here sells typical Nepali stuff like velvet blankets, slippers and numerous electronic items with cameras and calculators topping the list.

From here you can hire a cab or get on to one of the local Nepali buses to a bigger town further inside Nepal known as Baitari. Baitari has a bigger market and plenty of foreign goods. If the guards on the Indian side ask too many questions about your shopping use your charm.

There are no hotels to stay in here so you can stay parked at Pithoragarh and make Jhulaghat a day long excursion. The road is narrow and winding. Thus forced to drive slowly just enjoy the brilliant views of misty green mountains and swift flowing rivers. You can also stop by the small shacks selling tea and biscuits on the roadside and enjoy the atmosphere.

Askot Sanctuary 60 Km

Wildlife enthusiasts head for Askot while at Pithoragarh. The sanctuary is host to snow leopards, Himalayan black bears, musk deer, snow cocks, tahra, bharals, monals, chirs, koklas, pheasants an dchukors. Set in picturesquer surroundings, this sanctuary also offers magnificent mountain views from its height of 5,412ft. There are also a few temples dotting this lush green secluded forest.

Chaukori 85 Km

Chaukori at a height of 6,595ft, is a beautiful small town with great views of snow capped mountains an dextraordinary sunrises and sunsets. The entire area is covered with tea gardens and fruit orchards that are great for short walks. It is devoid of tourists, vendors or anything to see and do visit Chaukori just for its peace and quiet.

To get here from pithoragarh drive north to Dewal Thal 23 Km and then go up to Chaukori via Thal. You can trek to Berinag and Gangolihat from Chaukori. This town is also on the legendary trekking route to the Pindari Glacier which is visible from the viewpoints at Chandak near Pithoragarh.

Ramgarh would have been known as a culture capital rather than a hotbed of horticulture had Rabindranath Tagore struck to his original plan of setting up a centre of learning here. The Nobel laureate, who spent time here writing no doubt suitably inspired by Ramgarh’s magical spell, but he eventually gifted Santiniketan to his home state, Bengal.

Ramgarh went on to bloom into a horticultural haven, the fruit bowl of Kumaon and one of the most verdant and abundant regions in the hills. Ramgarh.

This Kumaoni enclave is a favourite with prosperous Dilliwallas who escape the heat and blaze of the summers and head for their stylish cottages in the area. After all the capital is all of eights hours away. Never mind if you can’t boast of your won little kothi among the apple trees, there plenty to do for the average traveler who wants to cool off in the hills during the sweltering summer months.

The magic begins almost as soon as you leave Bhowali. Make sure you tank up since this is the last petrol pump on your route. A steep climb and about 9km later you get your first reward, the soothing sight of snow. The heat and dust you have left behind in the plains never seemed more far away. The thick chir pine forests suffuse the air with a heady, resiny aroma. If you happen to be driving up to the hills after dark you might even spot a leopard.

Ramgarh itself is a small village with a road running through it. The best way to explore the countryside is to drive a short distance and then walk around through the sleepy hamlets. And if you are not up to haring around, grab a rug and a book and simply curl up on a grassy knoll. The only sound that will interrupt the peace is the tinkle of cowbells. Make sure the kids bring along their crayons and coloring paints, the pine cones strewn around can make an artist out of anybody. Ramgarh also has a fairly old Shiva Temple located hust south of Ramgarh on the Bhowali Road, where the road veers right towards Bhowali.

Pugmarked Picnics

The hills around Ramgarh are alive and buzzing with picnic possibilities. Park your car at Gagar, 3Km away. If lugging heavy picnic hampers and clanking beer bottles doesn’t excite you, then drive past Bhowali get onto the Almora Road and stop alongside the river near the Khairna Bridge. Your walk will be considerably shortened and there are plenty of sandy coves around to spread out your picnic. Spend some hapy hours seeking out leopard pugmarks on the soft sand.

Fishing

Make sure you pack your rod and frying pan as well. Ramgarh has a forest department office where you can get a fishing permit for Rs 125 per rod per day. Don’t fall for false assurances that a permit is not required. Your best bet is to ask your hotel or camp to make the necessary arrangements at the time of booking. The procedure could take time, as permits come from as far away as Ramnagar or Nainital. But do take the trouble since there mahseer in the Kalirao and Kosi rivers.

Adventure Options

In the mountains where everything involves going either straight up or straight down, adventure sports are never too far away. Trained instructors are available if you are in a large enough groups. Prior intimation is required, though so make sure that you make a mention of your interests when you book your accommodation.

Ask your hotel or lodge to organize rock climbing, rappelling and river crossing. While you contemplate the bubbles in your beer, the kids can have a go at outdoor favourites like cricket and badminton, go on nature walks and even do some birdwarching. Enquire about hiring cycles it’s the best way to travel.

Around Ramgarh

Nathunakhan 20Km

Ramgarh you will reach a fork where one road goes up to Mukteshwar and the lower one heads down to Talla Ramgarh lower Ramgarh. Follow the Talla Ramgarh Road, which descends into a valley full of orchards and a mountain stream. Just when you are going down instead of up to Nathuakhan.

Kumaoni queen Rani Padmini fell so deeply in love with the green glades and meadows of a tiny hill paradise that her king, Raja sukherdev, built her a grand place there and named the place Ranikhet or queens meadow. So goes the legend. There is no trace of a place to lend credence to this legend, but few who have visited Ranikhet have any doubts about its charms.

Part of the Ranikhet experience is in getting there. You are treated to the vistas that made the hill stations of Uttaranchal justly famous thick forested slopes of pine and deodar down which charge lively mountain streams and far below pristine valleys carpeted with flowers.

As you approach Ranikhet keep a look out for the best view of all as the snow clad Himalaya comes into full view.

With museums, temples, lively bazaars and orchards full of fruit, there is plenty to see and do here. Ranikhet is also a great place in which to do nothing but relax and gaze leisurely at the majestic Himalaya.

Also check out the kumaon Regimental Centre Museum, KRC widow’s organization and weaving factory, Jhula Devi and Mankameshwar temples

Chaubatia Orchards and Bhalu Dam

Picnic in the gardens at the government orchards at Chaubatia, 10km to the south or Ranikhet and buy some seasonal fruit. The Bhalu Dam on the Kosi River 3.2 Km away, popular for fishing. Be sure however to obtain prior permission fron the Chief Wildlife Warden, Dehra Dun before you go casting your rod.

Majhkhali

Another 13km down the Almora Road, this village has many nice picnic sports. Awe-inspiring snow peaks provide magnificent views. Go lose yourself to nature.

Upat and Kalika

Upat offers golfing at high altitudes, where a high powered shot can land far below in the valley, Visitors can have a game of golf at the Army Golf Course in Upat fro Rs 500. Golf clubs are also available for hire at Rs100. An old temple dedicated togoddess Kali lies just a kilometer away from Upat at Kalika.

Ranikhet sadar Bazaar is crowded with hotels and guest houses, but they are a complete let down and grossly overpriced. Hotels on the Mall are much better. During high season, you must book in advance.

Around Ranikhet

Tarikhet 8Km, Sitlakhet 39 Km

Do visit Gandhi Kutir in Tarikhet a small hut in which Mahatma Gandhi once stayed. More spectacular views of the Himalaya can be had at Sitlakhet, further down the Almora Road. Full of lush orchards, sitlakhet is famouse for its herbs. The town’s other attraction is the Syahi Devi Temple. Nearby just 2 Km from Sitlakhet, lies Khoont the ancestral village of Pandit Goind Vallabh Pant.

Dwarahat 35 Km

Seat of the Katyuri Dynastry in the 16th century, Dwarahat is a rich tourist spot whith sculptures. Land up here around April 13 – 15 for the Syalde bikhoti Mela Dwarhat is up the Ranikhet – Karnaprayag Highway that links Kumaon to Garhwal.

Route from Delhi, NH24 to Rampr via Hapur, Gajraula and Moradabad, NH87 to Kathgodam via Rudrapur state highway to Ranikhet via Bhimtal, Bhowali and Khairana.

Binsar is a deliciously quite and peaceful wildlife sanctuary in the Kumaon Hills unless you are listening in on the birds, in which case it transforms into a short of bustling avian information exchange. The air changes perceptibly as you approach Binsar there is a cool, freshly laundered scent that it carries. Wthe entry barrier itself located about 12km short of Binsar proper the drive is a charming one with oaks and deodars looking down on you with all the majestry of age. It is one of those places, which just lets you be and tells you, a la the Beatles, to let it be. It is peacefully devoid of touristy spots and the pressure to go there and do that. But Binsar does hold one claim to fame the unmatched views of the peaks of Kedarnath, Badrinath, Shivaling, Trishl and the majestic Nanda Devi.

With at least 166 identified bird species in the region, Binsar is a varitable goldmine for birdwarchers. There is the brainfever, streaked laughing thrush, spotted dove, large ped wagtail, yellow backed sunbird white capped redstart and then there are the butterflies, or you could even go chasing after a sight of the solitary leopard that inhabits Binsar. Stand worshipfully outside his cave at sunset and try not to think of him laughing his head off at you.

The newly inaugurated little museum at the entry to Binsar is worth a visit for the fund of information it affords about the flora and fauna of the region. Going up to Zero Point is an absolute must do. A viewing tower here affords a remarkablepanoramic view of the Himalayan Range at an aerial distance of arely 25 km and is the best spot from which to watch the sun rise and set.

Almora

Almora 33 km from Binsar is one of the rare places in the hills station where short distances take hours to cover because of twisty winding hill roads which allows you to visit many places from one central point. Settle down in one of the many high altitude resorts dotting the hillsides from mountain views and cool, brecing air. Then pay visits to Binsar, Kausani, Ranikhet, Katarmal or Jageshwar.

In Almora itself, discover the art and culture of the Kumaon region at the Gobind Vallabh Pant Public Museum near the bus stand. You will be surprised to find a very rare collection of Apen folk paintings apart from other treasures. Bright End corner is the place to eat the air and watch the sun rise and set over the hills.

Do also visit the Chitai Temple a good 8 km from Almora. Soak in the atmosphere at this important shrine to Gollu deva who is the most popular Kumaon deity.

Almora has plenty of shopping centres, including the near 200 year old Lal Bazaar. Among the more interesting buys are angora cloth made from the fur of angora rabbits not goats. Do also pick up some of Almoras speciality tamta copper vessels for your kitchen.

Come to Almora in September for the Nanda Devi Mela at the 100 year old Nanda Devi Temple.

Around Binsar

Jageshwar 66 Km

A pilgrim town Jageshwar was a medieval centre of Lakula Shaivism and is widely accepted as the eighth Jyotirlinga. The temples range in age fro the 8th century early Katyuri Dynasty to the 18th century chand Dynasty.

Jageshwar’s major attraction is the temple complex, with the most important temples being the Mrityunjaya and the Jyotirlinga itself. The Dandeshwar Temple complex a few kilometers away is also worth a visit. A trek up to the Briddha Jageshwar Temple is rewarding for the journey itself. A warning though the 3 km uphill trek is steep and you need to be reasonably fit. Carry a bottle of water along and avoid the goat paths.

The recently opened Archaeological Museum located next to the KMVM Tourist Rest House is worth a visit. Open 10am – 4pm every day Sunday closed, it houses exquisite idols and statuettes removed from the Jageshwar shrine dating as far back as the 10th century.

The breathtaking vistas of the forested drive over the Dhanachuli Bend into Champawat District can prepare you for the beauty that greets you in Abbott Mount. It takes a lot of wayfaring to reach this unspoiled corner of Uttranchal known as Kali Kumaon the realm of the Kali River near the Nepal border.

After never ending stretches of mosscovered deodar forests, you finally reach Lohaghat on the banks of the Lohawati River. Leave Lohaghat’s crowded bazzar behind and 6 km ahead at Marorakhan, a road climbs dramatically up through the clouds over 3 km this is Abbott Mount.

Pull into the driveway of Snow View Cottage, unchanged since the time one Abbott first built it. Deodars, pear tress and a solitary walnut tree grace the grounds. Step out of your care and there they are a chain of peaks in pure white coats that are the highest mountains on Earth the Himalaya stretched across the horizon. It was for this special view that Abbott chose this particular amount that towers above the neighbouring hills. Fear not for yor sanity if you need to pinch yourself to check whether you are dreaming. After all how often do you sit in a garden and watch clouds float.

The most striking view any of us had even witnessed. Kalyanji the caretaker at Snow view pointed out the peaks. There are Trishul, Maiktoli, Nandakot, Nandaghunti the majestic Nanda Devi. The Pindari Glacier but the clouds rose too fast.

This panorama will dominate your time in Abbott Mount, simply because you are on top of the highest hill in the neighbourhod. And throughout the daylight hours, there they are. Even after the sun set and it was pitch dark, sat facing the mountains, clustered around a bonfire under the walnut tree. The fireflies turned the deodars into Christmas trees, the brandy traveled all the way down to our toes. And all the while Kalyanji’s muh-boli behn told us tall tales of leopards and ghosts of the surrounding hills.

The Mount

There is little to distract you from your contemplation of the purity of Nanda Devi’s white coat, save for the occasional woood pecker. When you have leched at the peaks enough, visit Abbott Mount’s is reputed to be the second highest cricket pitches on earth, after Chail. At one end of the pitch is a tiny Church, where the eponymous Britisher lies buried, forever facing his beloved mountains? The view of the peaks from the pitch is even better than from the cottage. Between ou and Nanda Devi are the bowl in the Kumaon hills in which Pithoragarh sits, the snaking road that leads to it, terraced hills, of paddy and again those astounding clouds below your feet.

For more active moments any number of trails led down the mount from the garden itself. Follow these and come across the wildflowers of Kumaon and fat muchrooms that you should not even dream about eating. We went further down one of these trails than we had planned and looked back up to find that we could barely see the crest of the mount or the cottage. We were just perhaps a little lost. But it was really very simple to just continue in the direction we had set off in on a round mountain, where can you get back to but the place you started at.

Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan which is a must visit for its wonderfully warm razais of a thickness you will only find in the hills, smart Nehru jacket, sweaters, gloves and even some tasty amla and mango pickle.

Invasion of Nepal

A 36 k bumpy drive via Lohaghat brings you to the confluence of the Sarda and Kali rivers at Pancheshwar, where India and Nepal meet. This had no restraining effect on some in our party who got out of the care and proceeded to trespass on foot into Nepa. The rest of us followed timidly.

Walked down a forested hillside trail running parallel to the Kali. Suddenly, we espied a man glaring up at us from a cabin on the riverside below. Some of us were ready to flee when he broke into a broad grin and invited all of us ladies down for a cup of tea. What joy we felt to receive this kind greeting to our trespass. Imagine our mortification when we made our way down to find he was an employee of the Central Water Authority of Bharat Sarkar.

Route NH24 to Rampur via Moradabad, NH87 to Ranibagh via Kathgodam state highway to Lohaghat via Bhimtal, Khutani Bend, Chanfi, Padampuri, Dhanachuli Bend, Seharphatak and Devidhura, state road to Abbott Mount via Marorakhan.

The journey to the core of one’s being is in many ways the hardest to make. This is why I suppose I stared goggle eyed when Steve Lall my host a Jilling casually suggested that the quickest way to unload the burden of my big city baggage would be to take a walk in the surrounding forests in the nude. There would he guaranteed be no prying eyes and the only thing I needed to fear was my own misplaced sense of metropolitan middle3 class morality.

In the next two days and a bit that I was in Jilling, I did much else that nourished my should but I didn’t take him up on that offer or was it a dare perhaps I wear my inhibitions like a suit of Armour for fear of unleashing some deep seated primal instincts. Perhaps im just a pring. But the invitations to take a walk on the wild side couldn’t have been extended in a more appropriate environment. Jilling estate spread over 50 pluse acres of mixed deciduous forest is of course no nudist camp but it’s the nearest thing to an idyllic Garden of Eden. And its owner a practical environmentalist and nature friendly holiday facilitator has sworn to protect its virginal beauty and purity to the point of not allowing the local panchayat to build up to the estate.

This is why visitors to Jilling must walk or hire a pony or a palki for the last couple of kilometers uphill from Matrial. It’s a gentle hour long climb past oak and pine forests and bright red rhododendron blossoms and armies of plum, peach and apricot trees. But the absence of a macadamized roadway right to the top ensures that only the reasonably ift and the very ardent nature lovers make the effort to come.

This to me is as it should be. For eJilling isn’t run of the mil tourist resort to which anyone who coughs up the admittance fee may demand entry it’s a cultural experience a way of life an invitations to sit at the high table of Nature’s garden party. Treat it like a badge of honors that must be earned.

In Jilling leisure expands to fill the time allotted to it. City slickers who live a frenetic life may find that time hangs heavily on their hands here but that’s only if they haven’t opened up their minds to the limitless possibilities of the great wide open spaces. If you’re the outdoor king you’ll likely find 24 hours a day isn’t quite enough to do the things you want to do.

Walking

Explore the many walking trails through the forests to the surrounding villages, and interact with the villagers you’ll gain interesting insights into the way of life in the hills, kumaoni shamanistic rituals and much else. Jilling Estate provides a day guide for free if you find the gradient a strain you could hire a pony for the day. The forests are dense natural formations of oak chestnut, deodar and pine with an interspersing of rhododendrons, a thick undergrowth of ferns and several gurgling jungle streams. There are also plum apple and apricot orchards, which yield fruit in April-May. It’s perfectly okay to pluck them right off the tree and wolf them down.

Camping

Pitch tent anywhere in the forest that the guide thinks is sage or on the ridge 7,200 ft that overlooks the valley. The estate provides tents and other camp facilities but only on condition that you won’t disturb the animals and birds and are careful not to set off forest fires. Spend a night on the ridge under canopy of millions of stars and you could catch an early morning glimpse of barking deer or mountain goat on the craggy slopes.

Birdwatching

There are over 110 known Lower Himalayan bird species, including some endangered species like the cheer pheaseant in Jilling and wherever you are on the estate you’ll never be far form birdsong. Often given the air of serenity that reigns over the estate it may be the only sounds you’ll hear all day. From March onwards, Jilling also comes alive with countless species of butterflies you could go to sleep on a daisy meadow and wake up to the flapping of butterfly wings.

Wildlife

Almost everyone in the hills has a story to tell about sighting a leopard or a black bear not all of them are pleasant encounters. But a visitor who spends no more than a few days must get incredibly lucky to sight some big game, even form afar. Rather more easy to spot are wild boar, sambhar, barking deer and mountain goats. Steve has a powerful beacon light which when flashed on the hillsides may show up a scurry of nocturnal animals.

Treking

Jilling Estate organizes more rigorous treks to Milam Glacier, Pindari Glacier and Panchchuli. These 5 to 15 day treks to about 15,000 – 16,000 ft, complete with tents and porters and guides are typically organized in September – October after the monsoons, when the landscape turns indescribably green. The campsites are in scenic locations far away from regular rest houses. And Steve Lall is something of a motorbike freak and occasionally ofganises mobike trips to Kumaon, Garhwal and Nepal. Fees very with treks and size of groups for details check with the estate.

]]> http://www.mytourinfo.com/jilling-travel.html/feed 0 http://www.mytourinfo.com/kausani-holiday-trip.html http://www.mytourinfo.com/kausani-holiday-trip.html#comments Wed, 29 Apr 2009 09:09:25 +0000 Mti365@world http://www.mytourinfo.com/?p=41 India’s one of the famous tourist places in Kausani located in Uttranchal at 6,201 ft, overlooking the Kosi and Gomti rivers in Kumaon 50 Km North West of Almora.

For here you can look up for an unobstructed view of a 350 Km stretch of Himalayan peaks. You can also look down at Katyuri Valley and the Gomti far below. Kausani is a little less accessible to the madding crowd who prefer not to venture further up from the Tals. It remains a peaceful hill station with plenty to offer in terms of both peace and amusement.

The drive up from Kathgodam gets progressively more beautiful as you climb. In the summers rhododendrons flower in such profusion that they practioncally carpet the route. Incidentally buransh rhododendron squash is a great buy in this region fantastic stuff. Stop off at the Katarmal Sun Temple, known to the locals as Surya Mandir and in significance second only to konark. It’s a tiny detour of a couple of kilometers. While your vehicle will go a short way up on the kuchcha road, I don’t recommend it for the nerves. But the 45 min wheezing hike up from the road is worth it. The complex of 44 temples is over 800 years old and if you can get there at dawn you’ll witness the first rays of the sun streaming through a square aperture in one of the smaller temples to pay homage to the presiding deity in the main temple. Of the nearly 60 idols there the oldest is 900 years old.

Kainchi where the ashram of Neebkaruri Baba site right on the road is next. With several miracles to his credit including making a train stall because he was ordered off it by a self important British official he is said to have established 108 temples all over India and is worshipped as an avatar of Hanuman. After kainchim check out the massive stone toad that site in the middle of the riverbed at khairna before you find yourself in hot water. Garam Pani is the no nonsense name of the town you pass soon after.

Anashakti Ashram

There are other things you can do apart from gape at the view. Visit the Anashakti Ashram where Mahatama Gandhi wrote his commentary on the Anashakti Yoga, inspired by the vistas. The legacy of Gandhiji’s love for kausani has been preserved at the ashram set up by his disciple Sarlaben Katherine Heileman. Travelers can also stay here.

Kausani Rambles

The memorial of note Hindi litterateur Sumitra Nandan pant is worth a visit. Located next to his ancestral home some of his furniture is still kept here and the memorial also serves as a reference library. On his birth anniversary 20th may every year kavi goshthis and sammelans attended by local poets are organized here.

Then you can take in the tea gardens. Just five years old the Girias Tea of the Kausani gardens is fast making a name for itself. There’s a beautiful 2 Km walk from near the KMVN hotel through the tea gardens to the factory on the main road.

Around Kausani

A little lower than Kausani Baijnath is a one house town on the banks of the Gomti in the Garuda Valley. The main attraction here is the temple complex. Pick up a large packet of channa to feed the fish near the temple and don’t get tempted by their size fishing is strictly forbidden Alos look out for the large round stone which nine men should lift using only a finger each just outside the compound. The black stone idol of Parvati in the main temple is exquisitely worked and worth spending time over. Eight km from there is a kali Temple known as Kot-ki-mai.

Rail Nearest railhead kathgodam 138 km 4 half hrs. Taxi costs Rs1,200- 1,400.

Road From Delhi, drive along NH24 to Rampur and NH87 till Bhowali then bear right towards khairna and on to Almora. Kausani is 50 km north of Almora via Kosi and Someshwar.

]]> http://www.mytourinfo.com/kausani-holiday-trip.html/feed 0 http://www.mytourinfo.com/mukteshwar-tour.html http://www.mytourinfo.com/mukteshwar-tour.html#comments Wed, 29 Apr 2009 08:57:31 +0000 Mti365@world http://www.mytourinfo.com/?p=40 Mukteshwar is a quiet heaven at 7,513 ft above sea level in the Upper Kumaon Hills 26 km ahead of Ramgarh and 351 km North East of Delhi, india.

At 8,000 ft in the Kumaon Hills, Mukteshwar is only 350 km from Delhi but it could be another planet. From the Mountain Trail hotel where we are staying on a clear day you get a more than 180 degree views of the Himalaya including the whole of the Nanda Devi Range and Trishul the owner Dilip Gupta tells us.

There is something about hills, reminders of Earth’s adolescent upheavals and our own childhood’s that stirs memories. Mukteshwar is full of memories, most notably of Jim Corbett.

Mukteshwar is an ideal base from which to explore the tal region. But unless you want to be part of the human millrace that seasonally floods the hills from the plains, these over popular spots are best avoided.

In and around Mukteshwar itself there are mercifully only a few places of specific scenic interest to distract you from the main objective getting away from it all and just unwinding, without the proddling of busybody schedules and itineraries.

Like everywhere in the hills, Mukteshwar has a sunset point. Here it’s called Chauthi Jaali a jagged outcrop of rocks sculpted by the elements into a Daliesque vision of a storm raging sea cast in stone. Below the valley swoops down into a stomach lurching drop. Probably just as well. You don’t need distractions from the view which is truly breathtaking. At sunset or any other time of the day.

There is a nearby Shiva Temple but unless you are an ardent devotee besides being stout of limb to negotiate the steep path leading up to it you can skip it.

The PWD Bangalow immortalized by Corbett is worth a look see even if you’ve never read anything by the great shikari. The white and green trim bungalow has been kept in impeccable condition an eye opener for all us skeptics who believe that the government can’t do anything right. There is no Corbett memorabilia inside, but you can sit on the lawn and read one of his jungle yarns. Or just soak in the sunshine and think thoughts as vagrant as the mountain breeze.

Another local institution of interest is the Mukteshwar post office, possibly the only one in the country which still does double duty as a mini general store where people gather to exchange information and general gup shup.

Around Mukteshwar

Sitla 5Km

If Mukteshwar is a getaway Sitla Estate is a getaway from a getaway. There is nothing in Sitla but a 150 year old house, built by an eccentric and long departed English family which owner Vikram Maira has converted into a six room hotel.

Wraparound views of snow peaks, dense forests like green clouds settled on the hills nature walks as rambling as a shikar yarn, snug rooms warmed by cheery fires in winter homemade apricot and plum juice to wash down the good simple and substaintial fare. Yes but what do I do in Sital if you need to ask that at all Sitala’s not for you or you for sitla.

One of the most oft told plain plain tales of the hills centers on the discovery of Nainital by a Britisher in 1841. Back then the kumaonis were filled with foreboding about what would become of their sacred lake which they believed to be the eye of sati. Sure enough Nainital today isn’t what it used to be. Not only did the british crowd the slopes of this hill station with their cottages and clubs, the Kumaonis won compatriots sent up a sprawl in the gaps that have all but ruined what was once the most beautiful lake in kumaon. Still though Nainital has expanded and the surrounding forest that once teemed with tigers and deer has thinned down abysmally, the soul of the place remains. It is still possible to look for traces of Jim Corbett’s town in the modern day resort and track down bits of history or revel in the clear mountain air and find enchanting wooded groves.

Set against the backdrop of the kumaon Himalaya this lake resort has many interesting walks along pine forest many interesting walks along pine forest trails in the neighboring woods. There is an overhanging sense of festivity during the high season when the town is closed to heavy vehicles and holidayers can get loud and overbearing. But Nainital takes it all in her stride. Be different from the rest move to the outskirts and let peace envelop you again.

In season hordes of honeymooners Swamp Nainital and understandably so the setting of Nainital does ignite spearks of romance in most hearts. Your may stroll around the lake try a bit of boating shop at the Mall, take in the view or do nothing at all except sun yourself and relax. Please worth visiting are Dorothy’s Dorothy’s Seat popularly known as Tiffin Top 4 km from the lake Land’s End and the Nainital Zoo which has some rare high altitude species you won’t find in Delhi. Entry Fee Rs10 Timings open daily except Mondays.

Naini Lake

Hindu mythology has it that the tal lake is one of the emerald green eyes of Sti Shiva’s wife. It is said that the Naina Devi Temple at the northern end of the lake is the exact spot where her eye fell, after Vishnu chopped up her body and scattered it over the country to stop shiva’s cosmic dance of destruction.

A rowboat ride around the lake costs Rs120. Alternatively you can hire a small yacht at Rs80-120 per half hr from the Nainital Boat Club. You will get a boatman along with these but there are pedal boats to explore the lake on your own. However be sure to venture into the lake only with life jackets.

A thrill for adults too the Aerial Express ropeway to snow view 7,450 ft affords majestic views of the Himalaya dominated by the sacred Nanda Devi peak. Near the lake buy knick knacks toys and balloons. Ropeway fare Round trip Rs65 per hr. Timings 9 am 5 pm.

Around Nainital

Pangot 15km

IT is hard to believe that just 15 km from this madness called Nainital is an island of tranquility, 6,000 ft above sea level where you can either lie soaking in the sun or do some vigorous walking in the dense oak and rhododendron forests. Pangot is a great place for birders and trekkers. The walk from the Kilbury Forest Rest House to Pangot is very popular. A long trail leading up to Naina Peak 8,563 ft, offers picture postcard views of the Himalaya. This track is full of canary flycatchers’ white throated laughing thrushes’ blackbirds and titmice.

Jeolikot 18-km

Sri Aurobindo and Swami Vivekananda found this tiny hilltop village a perfect haven for solitude and healing. The hills encasing Jeolikot are sprinkled with shrines and colonical structures. Follow the sylvan trail to a tiny bungalow once the home of a direct descendant of Napoleon Bonaparte. Check out the house of war wick sahib a retired major of the British army. On his death it was discovered that the major was a woman.

Rail Nearest railhead kathgodam 35 km 1 hr. Cabs charge Rs250 to Nainital. Road from Delhi drive along NH24 to Rampur then its NH87 all the way via Rudrapur, Haldwani, Kathogodam and Jeolikot. The total drive takes 6 and half hrs. Regular buses leave for Nainital from Delhifrom ISBT Anand Vihar.